Thursday, December 2, 2010

Phuket Trip Day 4!


This is actually going to be some background information about the Vegetarian Festival in Thailand.  This was the main reason that we came to Phuket, but it has some pretty strange traditions. 

The Phuket Vegetarian Festival is an annual event held during the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar.  It is believed that the Vegetarian Festival and its accompanying sacred rituals bestow good fortune upon those who religiously observe this rite.  During this time, local residents of Chinese ancestry strictly observe a 10-day vegetarian or vegan diet for the purposes of spiritual cleansing and merit-making.  Sacred rituals are performed at various Chinese shrines and temples and aesthetic displays such as walking barefooted over hot coals and ascending ladders with bladed rungs are performed by entranced devotees known as "Ma Song" (Not my words: http://www.phuketvegetarian.com/index_eg.htm

The History of the Festival:

Phuket's Vegetarian festival ( Jia Chai in the local Hokkien Chinese dialect) began in 1825, when the govenor of Thalang, Praya Jerm, moved the island's principal town from Ta Reua in Thalang District to Get-Hoe in Kathu District, where there were tin mines and Chinese miners.  Kathu was then still covered by jumgle and fever was rife.  It happened that a traveling opera comany (called ngiu in Thai or pua-hee in Hokkien dialect) came from China to perform for the miners. 

When the whole company grew sick from an unnamed malady, they kept to a vegetarian diet to honor two of the emperor gods, Kiew Ong Tai Teh and Yok Ong Sone Teh.  The sickness afflicting the opera troupe then disappeared.  This greatly interested the people of Kathu, who asked how it was done.  The answer came that the rituam vegetarianism with its attendant ceremonies have been the cause, with the result that people embraced the faith entusiastically.  Thus the festival began: starting the first evening of the ninth lunar month, it continued until the ninth evening; the aim was to bring good luck to individuals as well as to the community.

It later happened that one familiar with the festival colunteered to return to Kansai, in China, where he invited the sacred Hiao Ho-le or Hiao Ian (incense smoke) and Lian Tui (name plaques), which have the status of gods, to the ceremonies, returning to Phuket on the seventh night of the ninth month.  The people, upon hearing of his arrival, went in procession to Bang Niao Pier to bring him and his sacred cargo back.  this was the origin of the processions that figure so greatly in the festival. 

The afternoon before the festival begins, a great pole at each temple is raised, called the Go Teng pole, with which the gods are invited to descend.  At midnight the pole is hung with nine lanterns, signalizing the opening of the festival.  Two important gods are also invited down at midnight to preside over the ceremonies; these are Yok Ong Hong Tae and Kiew Ong Tai Tae. 

Aside from this, there are other ceremonies throughout the fest, notably: invocation of the gods Lam Tao, who keeps track of the living, and Pak Tao, who keeps track of the dead; processions of the gods' images; and feats of the Ma Song-like bathing in hot oil, bladed ladder climbing, and fire-walking.  The festival ends with merit making ceremonies at each temple (sadoh kroh) and the send-off of the gods on the last night (when fireworks are at their most impressive). 

Ma Song, or entranced horses, are devotees whom the gods enter during the fest.  They manifest supernatural powers and perform self-tortures in order to shift evil from individuals onto themselves, and to bring the community good luck.  ma Song fall into two categories: those who, having had an intimation of impending doom, want to extend their lives; and people specifically chosen by the gods for their moral qualities.

Throughout the festival fireworks and drums are sounded, especially during ceremonies.  It is held that the louder they are, the better, because the noise drives away evil spirits. 

Participants in the fest keep to a strict vegetarian diet for a varying number of days, usually no less than three.  This they do to make themselvves strong in mind and body; they refrain from all vice, eating animal flesh, and killing animals.  The festival thus promots good hygiene, brightness, and inner peace.  (not my words, http://www.phuketvegetarian.com/phuketvegetarian-eng/phuketvegetarian-history.htm )

That's a little bit of background information so that you can somewhat understand why these people do what they do to themselves.  Some of the things that I saw made me squeemish, and at times I got extremely grossed out.  I am glad their gods were in them cause I don't think I could ever do that to myself.  You will see pictures in a bit.

The next few pictures were not taken by me, but they are courtesy of Google.  I will have my pictures up in the next one, but these will be better than mine :P

  This was taken in 2004, where the guy had put a bike through his cheecks.  This is real, not photoshopped at all.  The people had lots of stuff stuck in their mouths.  Slightly gross.

Another person with a bit thing in his mouth.  The biggest thing that I saw was a beach umbrella.  Like a full sized, gigantic one.  That was pretty disturbing. 

Okay.  I thought I'd add some pictures to this one so that it wasn't all text, but the next one will have my pictures and some more writing about my personal opinions on what went down on this day. 

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